Snowmobiling in Finnmark: the far north at full throttle

Finnmark is Norway's biggest and emptiest county, 350 km above the Arctic Circle, and in winter most of it can only be reached one way: on a snowmobile. The Finnmarksvidda plateau rolls away south of Alta for longer than you can see, white in every direction, and crossing a corner of it is one of the great Arctic days out.

What a day looks like

You leave from the lodge after breakfast, in proper sub-zero gear with a briefing done and a guide out front. The machines follow marked winter routes across the plateau, between birch forest, frozen lakes and open fell. Lunch happens somewhere with a fire. By the time you are back, the sauna is hot and the light is turning blue.

Do I need experience?

No. The machines are easier than they look, the pace is set by the guide, and first-timers settle in within the first kilometres. Bring your driving licence: you need one to drive a snowmobile in Norway. Children and nervous passengers can ride in a guide's sled instead.

What to wear

Less than you think, because the right kit is provided: insulated suits, boots, gloves and helmets over your own base layers. The cold in Finnmark is dry, which makes minus fifteen here kinder than minus five in a damp city.

Where to base yourself

Alta. It has its own airport with direct flights from Oslo, and the plateau starts just behind the town. We run our winters from Alten Lodge, on a hilltop above the Altafjord, with snowmobiles delivered to the door. Through February and March we host Alta Winter Weekends: snowmobiles and dog sleds by day, the northern lights and one long table by night.